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LA BONNE HEURE CUISINE FRANÇAISE
A sophisticated environment, top
quality ingredients, the skills of a
highly trained chef… these are just
some of the things that are
typically associated with French
cuisine, and none of them come
cheap. Discovering La Bonne Heure is
a pleasant surprise, therefore, as
while it isn’t cheap either, its
prices are extremely reasonable
given the quality of what is on
offer.
For one thing, it has a great
location, just off Senado Square. It
also has a refined yet relaxed
atmosphere, great for either a quiet
meal for two or a get-together with
a group of friends. Its interior is
spread out over different levels,
from the chic but comfy top floor
down to the very cosy basement. The
lighting is at just the right level,
which also helps to display the
artwork which hangs on the walls –
La Bonne Heure now functions as a
gallery space as well as restaurant.
The service is attentive without
being oppressive, which adds to the
friendly feel of the place.
Make sure you ask about the chef’s
recommendations, and if possible get
them from the man himself. Koji
Sonehara, La Bonne Heure’s charming
chef-de-cuisine, is from Japan but
is an expert in the French culinary
arts - as you’ll realize when you
taste his food. His cooking combines
not only his rigorous training but
also real creativity; rather than
sticking to a fundamentalist
interpretation of French cuisine he
introduces different ingredients and
ideas which really make his dishes
stand out.
His scallop tartare, for example,
gives centre stage to the delicate
flavour of the fresh seafood, but
then combines the scallops’ soft
texture with a surprisingly crunchy
base – which even more surprisingly
turns out to be a mixture of lotus
root and pumpkin. The Japanese
shrimp carpaccio is another delicate
mix of east and west, but there are
plenty of more traditional starters
too, including some delicious
Provence-style crispy camembert
rolls.
You’re unlikely to go wrong whatever
you pick for a main course, but
special mention has to go to the
duck confit with mashed potato and
the sea bass roll stuffed with fish
mousse and served with a white wine
and butter sauce. Similarly, the
desserts all receive good reports -
although it’s difficult not to stick
with the deliciously rich chocolate
fondant once you’ve tried it.
At the end of a meal this good,
remorse sometimes sets in when you
ask for the bill, but at La Bonne
Heure that needn’t necessarily be
the case. A little over MOP300 per
head should get you three courses
and drinks, which is great value
considering the seriously high
quality of the food; even better
value is the MOP68 two-course
lunchtime set menu. It’s not
difficult to see why this great
little restaurant becomes a firm
favourite of most who’ve tried it.
Travessa de São Domingos, 12AB; Tel:
(853) 28331209 (12:00am – 3:00pm /
6:00pm – 11:00pm, closed on
Wednesdays)
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